TAIPEI 101

Note: Today's blog is pretty much a novel. With it being my first day abroad I have a lot to share. Maybe they will get shorter from here. Hang in there with me! More pictures can be found by clicking here.

Taipei 101: A year's worth of experiences in Taipei, Taiwan packed into one day.

After a whirlwind of an itinerary completed yesterday, Paul and I passed this course with flying colors, but not without a few good stories to tell!

A little background info: For those of you who aren't familiar, my husband Paul and I, Katherine, flew from Katy, Texas yesterday as the first part of our move to Kuala Lumpur. Paul, 26, has taken a two year assignment in Kuala Lumpur, or KL as it is commonly known, and I, 24, have never lived out of the country. Maybe after two years of blogging you and I will both see my ignorant notions of anything foreign be dispelled. Hopefully I will be able to keep everyone updated weekly or so here on the blog and document our travels, stories, adventures, and mishaps as the two of us travel the Asia Pac (Asia Pacific) region over the next two years. For those of you who aren't up to date on the lingo and acronyms, don't despair. You and I will learn together.

We chose to use a day layover in Taipei to explore the city and see what Taiwan had to offer. Luckily, we were able to get in touch with a high school foreign exchange student named Tiffany from Taiwan who knows Paul's step-mom. Tiffany and her non-english speaking mother kindly agreed to show us around the city for the entire day. Little did we know this tour included a very detailed itinerary that started from the time we arrived at the hotel at 7am and didn't end until Midnight with every minute jam packed so not to miss a single detail of the city. Paul and I were also unaware of the toll the 13 hour time difference plus 18 hour flight time would take on our tired bodies. But, we were completely and very ignorantly optimistic that this would be no problem and we were ready to tackle this day long journey full force. Keep reading. I promise it gets more interesting.

So, we arrive in Taipei feeling somewhat energized, especially since I managed to fit in a 10 hour nap on the flight. No medicine required. I'm an expert sleeper. We were greeted by our hotel driver with no more than a nod of the head when we recognized our last name on the sign he held up. He did not speak English but briskly showed us to his car filled with pink arm floaties and children's books. This small man struggled to lift our 70 pound 0 oz. suitcases (that's the max weight you can check in on the plane) into the trunk of his SUV, but after a little push and shove we were off to the races! The drive to the hotel was about 30 minutes and was absolutely beautiful. I've never seen so much green in a city, and did not expect to see much more than concrete with a city of 6 million people. All the trees are dark green and cover the hills and mountains we drove through. The flowers have a very tropical feel and make the city look very different from home. There is no question though Taipei is a city growing upwards and not spreading outwards. The buildings were packed in like sardines and climbing into the clouds.

When the bell hop opened my door, I stepped out onto a gutter grate and almost into a 5 gallon bucket of leftovers from whatever the hotel had served for dinner the night before. As I learned later in the day, people place any trash they have anywhere on the curb in any sort of container e.g. a 5 gallon bucket, to be picked up by the trash man before 8am. To get to our hotel we had to go down a little ally between some old run-down buildings. The city planning here is definitely trying to utilize every last inch of space left to build. But the Grandee Hotel was such a surprise for me as it's a very modern and chic space completely equipped with a Toto toilet, tub, and sink and a non-fogging mirror. The designer in me was loving it.

So we took a walk down the street and stumbled upon the grocery market with the freshest of any food you could think of including chickens hanging from hooks and took some pictures while we waited for Tiffany and her mom. We quickly learned a few things. 1. Mopeds are the preferred method of travel. 2. We were not in a touristy part of town and especially not in a part of town where blondes were abundant or even in existence. And 3. While Taipei is a growing metropolis, people still use some rudimentary tools for work such as brooms hand made with sticks and cranes with crank parts made of wood.


We rode in the back seat of the small BMW M3 with Tiffany's mom, whose name we never did learn, driving, and Tiffany in the passenger seat translating. According to them, our first stop had to be for a Chinese breakfast drink called Rice Milk. Paul's tasted close to coffee, and mine tasted like a hot bowl of oatmeal with two tablespoons of sugar in liquid form. While I very politely sip down the entire drink we made our way very quickly up a windy road to the top of a mountain. Apparently foreigners were only recently allowed to travel to the top. On the way we passed the hot springs, but we opted not to go in because being naked in front of a bunch of strangers in a tub seemed a little too adventurous. If you have ever been to Mexico or another country of the like, the driving in Taiwan is the same. I was holding my breath waiting to be sideswiped by the cars that do not care about the yellow line in the middle of the road or for Tiffany's mom to run over a moped driver. So, with every break and gun of the accelerator around the nearly 180 degree turns up to the top, the warm rice milk sloshed in my stomach a little less comfortably. Inevitably, the car-sickness sat in and I began sweating, holding my camera bag with a death grip for stability and wondering what in the world this non-English speaking gracious tour guide would think if I made her stop her lovely tour to allow me to revisit my rice milk breakfast on the side of the road. What kind of tourist would I be?

We passed a hillside covered in Cala Lilies and she told us to get out of the car for a walk to see the view. This couldn't have come at a better time and I was able to get my bearings again while Tiffany's mom bought me a dozen Cala Lilies that are farmed in Taiwan like corn or wheat in The States. The weather was cold and crisp on the top of the mountain, with a view of the city covered in fog. So, back in the car of course we had to take the same route down the mountain stopping for nothing and the car-sickness was miserable the entire way down. I was determined to stick it out and not be a wimpy tourist. At least not in the first hour.

The next stop was the national art museum where we saw beautiful Chinese art. More importantly we learned some more about the people from Japan, China and Taiwan. Their personal space is non-existent and therefore they assume yours is too. They packed themselves in to any exhibit space like sardines, and were not afraid to stand right in front of you if you left them even an inch of space. I have never been so close to people in my life, and what was interesting is the museum was not a small building. It did not require that everyone stand body to body. But they did like it was the norm. So I figured, "When in Rome!" and went with it. Throughout the museum tour Tiffany would tell us where the people were from which she could tell by the accent they spoke with. I caught on to none of it.


Of course after this, food was in order according to Tiffany's mom. And while the rice milk was still reminding me that I wasn't ready for food, throughout the day we realized that if you left it up to Tiffany's mom, food would be in order every minute of the day. So we made our way to a Chinese restaurant, which is completely different from PF Changs or any Chinese Buffet you've ever been to. It was a little restaurant where you can watch them make the steamed dumplings and sticky buns at the front of the store, and where they hang your receipt on the back of the chair and add on food items throughout the meal. Apparently it's part of the Chinese culture that when you eat, not only do you talk loudly but you eat a lot and order a lot and do the full 5 course meal minus the salad. We did all that, were complimented by the table next to us on our chop-stick skills, ate too much, and it was good.

Next on the itinerary was to see the changing of the guards. It's a similar idea to the Changing of the Guards in DC, except with a Taipei kind of flare. We never got the story of why the guards were there or the purpose of the change, but it was interesting to watch.


And of course before we could go see this, we had to stop to have a traditional Taiwan drink of Milk Tea with tapioca balls. When in Rome or not, I couldn't make myself drink it after the rice milk incident. We then went to The Grand Hotel which according to Tiffany's mom is where we should have stayed. The design of the building is traditional Chinese.



We walked through the hotel and of course the only picture I could take of Paul without having to pull teeth was him with the Lion's rear-end.



We then made our way to the old tourist night Market. On the way we saw the government building, a massive Farris wheel, and we stopped at the Buddhist temple. The temple was definitely an eye opener to a huge part of many Taiwan people's culture. With flower and food offerings covering the tables and incense burning everywhere, we watched as the people prayed to the individual Buddha of their choice for what they wanted/needed that day. There were several alters which Tiffany explained one was for fishing prosperity, one was for finding a husband, etc. A very different mindset and faith from what I believe in, but I figured if I'm going to immerse myself in the culture for a day, that should probably be one of the things to see as to better understand the people.

When we made it through the pedestrians and traffic to the tourist night Market, it was everything you see on TV of a typical China Town and more. Hanging food, cooking food, giant dumpling steamers, lots of noise, mopeds, and people, with food "hawker" or kiosk stands lining the streets. I did have a few near death experiences with the moped drivers, but managed to make it out alive. In addition, this night market is also known as Snake Alley for all of its snake inhabitants. Apparently Chinese people like to drink liquor with snakes soaked in it, and eat snakes. This would have been my mother's worst nightmare with snakes of every shape and size including cobras, in cages in the restaurants. The snake sightings definitely woke Paul up from his jet-laggish state and he stole the camera to take some shots.


The night market experience was not complete without a massage from a blind man which of course we were told we had to do. And again, we couldn't go without food so we tried the fried sweet potato balls. Delicious.

Next we drove to the opposite end of the spectrum. Downtown Taipei where the buildings are as modern and more updated than Houston. Sleek, clean line, contemporary designs were all to be seen. We passed all the expensive name brand stores you see in the US like Cartier, Rolex, Gucci, Dior, etc. along with a 10 story bookstore and 4 different shopping malls. When we arrived at our destination, the Taipei 101 building, we managed to find a parking spot amongst the hundreds of mopeds. We went up through the shopping mall and waited in line for the building's observatory. Taipei 101 was built in 2004 as the tallest building in the world. It has 101 floors, and the observatory is on the 88th and 90th floor. This building is pretty incredible as it was built to withstand the strongest earthquake and last for 2500 years. In the center of the building hangs a some-thousand-ton wind damper which works against the wind and earthquakes to keep the building from swaying. While we were in line of course we were able to share personal space again with all the people waiting in line to get on the very packed elevator. That was interesting. One man of Asian descent stared at me from only 12 inches in front of my face long enough to make me a little weirded-out, and then asked, "Where you from?" It was apparent I was the only blonde headed person there, and the blue eyes must have been a giveaway that I was not from Taipei. He then informed me that he "like Texas", and the line moved on. That's when I told myself, "Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore!" I had to remind myself that I was the foreigner here, which is a very different feeling after 24 years of being the majority. At the top of the building, the view was beautiful.



By this time Paul and I are both completely exhausted and ready to call it a day. But Tiffany and her mom have so much more planned for us! So, we trek on to the next destination. More eating. We were able to get a seat at a dumpling restaurant that specializes in simple Chinese food which happens to be ranked #4 in the world for best restaurants. And it was all it's cracked up to be. We took the very tiny stairs up three flights to find our table. I love dumplings and was so sad that my stomach was stuffed to the max already by rice milk and fried sweet potatoes and everything else you can imagine. After eating pork dumplings, (not to be confused with "westible") Tiffany's mom asked if I could go into the dumpling prep area to take pictures with the chefs. They were all very busy twisting each tiny dumpling 23 times to seal it to perfection. We were happy to find out they have a store not far from where we will be living in Malaysia, and for those of you who are near San Francisco, there is a restaurant there as well.

After dinner we were taken to our hotel only long enough to check in. Again, Tiffany's mom gave us three boxes of pineapple pastry cake. We haven't figured out how we are going to take that to KL yet. We walked across the street to the very famous Shilin night market. Apparently night markets came to be in Taipei when the Chinese first came over and there was some unrest between the government and cultures. So, the Chinese people held what was like an underground market to buy and sell goods because the government wouldn't allow it. It's now turned into the night market where you can buy and eat anything and everything, the latter which we were forced to do yet again. We experienced the smell of stinky tofu more than too many times, and were handed bags of fresh fruit, fried chicken breast the size of my head, sausage on a stick, fried pastries, peanut ice cream, Indonesian rice milk served in a plastic bag and I can't even remember what else, whether we liked it or not. At this point we were so disgusted by the site of food we started dropping some things in the trash can when no one was looking so not to hurt anyone's feelings.

The night market was an experience in itself, but the massages afterwards were serious experiences. If I learned nothing else by this trip, I learned that Taiwan masseuses take their jobs very seriously and want to make sure you get your money's worth! They are in no way gentle, and the foot reflexology is something I don't care to try again. During the back message I'm glad I was face down because I was laughing the entire time. Tiffany's mom was groaning in pain with a Chinese accent, and my masseuse, who was a giant of a man with hands larger than the chicken breast from the night market was burping out loud and very shamelessly. The best part was that Paul was forced to have reflexology and a back message with us. So while we endured the pain for an hour, I thought of the bed I was about to be dreaming in. No more food and no more walking. Our night was complete and I thought to myself, if this is Taipei 101, could I ever pass Taipei 102?

15 Response to "TAIPEI 101"

  1. Aunt Jill Says:
    May 13, 2010 at 10:53 AM

    Kat, this is great! I can't wait to read about more of your adventures as you and Paul eat your way across KL!

  2. Lauren Priddy Says:
    May 13, 2010 at 7:47 PM

    I am with the guy in line with you. "I like Texas." I am glad I can live my adventures vicariously through my sister!

  3. Anonymous Says:
    May 13, 2010 at 7:54 PM

    Outstanding! Enjoy it!.... Unc Joe

  4. Dan and Susan Evans says:
    May 13, 2010 at 8:30 PM

    Kat, enjoyed reading about your travels thus far. Dan and I are so excited for you and Paul for this opportunity to travel and see the world. We look forward to hearing more as you get settled in.

  5. Reese Nixon Says:
    May 13, 2010 at 10:11 PM

    Love this, Kat!! Can't wait to hear more!!

  6. Kelley Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 12:12 AM

    Love it! Wish I could experience this right along side y'all. Sounds like more adventures await y'all!

  7. Beverly Oliver Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 2:24 AM

    Kat, I loved reading about your's and Paul's adventures thus far. I felt like I was there with you.

  8. Larry Sass Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 5:30 AM

    Kat. What a beginning. You had us in stitches. It all sounds to me like a Jewish Bar Mitzvah. Forget baking cakes. Get a publisher. Larry Sass

  9. Camille West Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 9:55 AM

    Kat, I'm a friend of your Aunt Jill. She shared your blog with us and I loved it! I look forward to hearing more about your travels.

  10. Anonymous Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 10:11 AM

    Kat - I loved hearing about your adventures in China. I can't wait to keep reading your blogs. I'm with Larry, you need a publisher. Your stories kept us laughing and we felt as if we were right there experiencing everything with you! Enjoy your time overseas!!! Melissa Paiva

  11. Anonymous Says:
    May 14, 2010 at 10:23 AM

    your special

  12. Walter Mitterhofer Says:
    May 18, 2010 at 9:47 PM

    P & K:
    It is great to read your blogs. We miss you guys and please keep writing this blogs.
    I am happy that you guys are learning so much and enjoying the international food. Also, you should write a book!! Thanks for every thing.
    Walter

  13. hootie8 says:
    May 24, 2010 at 12:58 AM

    What a wonderful experience! I couldn't stop reading until I had finished all of your posts. (I agree about the publisher). The food sounds much better than what Jen & David experience in Kyrgyzstan. Have fun and be safe. I look forward to your next posts and photos. We love you guys!

  14. Bill and Sandy Byrd says:
    May 24, 2010 at 11:22 AM

    Like mother, like daughter. You get your Gladys Kravizt skills from me. However, I never used a camera lens to spy on my neighbors; only a rifle scope.
    Yes, there are people in America who live like the construction man. Sometimes God takes us out of our everyday environment in order that our eyes might be opened to see as He sees. It is my prayer for you that your eyes will continue to see the people in your new environment through his eyes.
    Now...get back to that window!

  15. afairlie says:
    June 12, 2010 at 5:01 AM

    Oh my gosh, Kat! I am just now getting around to reading and commenting on these! I am laughing... out loud... by myself. This is great stuff! However, I must say, I'll need you to learn how to make those fried sweet potato balls and then share the recipe. That sounds like heaven! However, I think you can leave the snake soaked liquor and burping masseuse in KL! :)

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